When Christmas comes, the streets are full of lights and the shops are decorated for this occasion. In the heart of Naples, in the historical center, there is one street that is more beautiful and shinier than the others during Christmas time. It's via San Gregorio Armeno, which is also known as the street of cribs (via dei presepi).

This street is one of the alleys between via dei Tribunali and Via San Biagio dei Librai, also called Spaccanapoli.

Even though you can feel the Christmas spirit every period of the year, during this period it reaches its maximum radiance. In fact, the street is the heart of the Neapolitan crib art. It is very famous, as many showbusiness people want to be represented in the street, even Dolce & Gabbana staged a fashion show there with Sophia Loren.

The origin of San Gregorio Armeno's cribs

Via San Gregorio Armeno is a street that crosses two Decumani. In the Roman Era, in this area, there was an ancient temple dedicated to Ceres, to whom worshippers used to bring pottery figurines.

During the X century, a monastery was built on the ancient temple, where nuns kept the relics of San Gregorio. As Christian religion spread, the artisans started realizing gospel figurines. That's how Neapolitan crib was born.

The cribs in San Gregorio Armeno

Along the way, you can admire many statues and scenographies, which are the maximum expression of this art that has been passed on for centuries in artisan shops. Crib craftsmen experience and realize every year new creations to exhibit. From the houses to the animals, you will find everything you need for your nativity scene.

You can admire all the characters of Neapolitan crib tradition, from the Holy Family to the Three Wise Men. The main characteristic of the Neapolitan crib is the union between sacred and profane. In fact, among the figures in the shops, you can also find famous personalities, especially those who have been relevant throughout the year. Being part of the Neapolitan crib has now become an aspiration of many people.

The main characters of Neapolitan crib tradition are the grove, the Holy family, the Sheppard, the salesman, the gypsy, and the friends playing cards.

The artisan workshops of Neapolitan cribs

From the Church of San Gregorio (decorated with beautiful frescoes by Luca Giordano) to Spaccanapoli, the street is full of artisan shops that are specialized in the production of cribs. Even though you can visit it during the whole year, at Christmas the shops light up and they become particularly beautiful because they are decorated with the cribs produced during the year.

Among the most important historical craftshops:

• Fratelli Capuano: dating back to 1840, the artshop of Fratelli Capuano is so specialized in the production of Neapolitan cribs that it even decorated the Royal Palace of Madrid for Christmas;
• Di Virgilio, 1830: it is one of the oldest artisan shops in Napoli, and nowadays it is run by Genni Di Virgilio. He is continuing the tradition that was passed down to him by his father. It is famous especially because there are many VIPs in the little statues;
• Ferrigno: the workshop can be considered as a museum, where you can find rare examples of Neapolitan craftmanship and crib tradition;
• Sciuscià: not only can you find statues for your cribs in this shop, but you can also admire scenographies of Napoli in 1700 and unique pieces of craftmanship.

A craft tour of Napoli will give you the chance to discover and enjoy this centuries-old art.

How to reach San Gregorio Armeno

If you're in the center, it's very easy to reach San Gregorio Armeno. From Napoli Centrale, you can go to Corso Umberto I and then Via Duomo. Then you have to turn left to via San Biagio dei Librai.

If you are moving by metro, you can stop at the closest station, Museo.

Take a look at our homes in Napoli, so you can live the magic of the city at its best.

November 25th, 2021